What’s the Difference Between AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs in Exfoliation?

Ever wondered what all these skincare acids are and which one your skin actually needs?

If you’ve been reading ingredient lists and see things like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or lactobionic acid, you're already looking at **AHAs**, **BHAs**, and **PHAs**.

Let’s make it simple — here’s how they’re different, how they work, and which one is best for your skin type.

 **What Is Exfoliation, Anyway?**

Exfoliation means removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. It helps:

- Unclog pores

- Brighten dull skin

- Improve product absorption

- Smooth out texture

Chemical exfoliants like AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs do this **without scrubbing**, so they’re usually gentler than physical scrubs.

 **AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)**

**Best for:** Dry, dull, pigmented skin

**How they work:** AHAs are water-soluble acids. They work on the **surface of the skin**, dissolving dead skin cells to give a smoother, brighter look.

**Common examples:**

- **Glycolic acid** – strong and effective, but can be irritating

- **Lactic acid** – gentler, good for sensitive skin

- **Mandelic acid** – larger molecule, mild and great for acne-prone or pigmented skin

**What they do:**

- Improve uneven skin tone

- Reduce sun damage

- Hydrate (especially lactic acid)

**Caution:** Can cause sensitivity to the sun — always wear sunscreen.

 **BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acids)**

**Best for:** Oily, acne-prone, blackhead-prone skin

**How they work:** BHAs are **oil-soluble**, which means they can go **deep into pores**, dissolve excess oil, and fight acne from the root.

**Most common BHA:**

- **Salicylic acid**

**What it does:**

- Clears out clogged pores

- Reduces inflammation (great for pimples)

- Calms redness

- Fights blackheads and whiteheads

**Caution:** Can dry out the skin if overused.

 **PHAs (Poly Hydroxy Acids)**

**Best for:** Sensitive, dry, or reactive skin

**How they work:** PHAs are **gentler cousins of AHAs**. They work on the surface like AHAs but have **larger molecules**, so they **penetrate slowly** and cause less irritation.

**Examples:**

- **Gluconolactone**

- **Lactobionic acid**

**What they do:**

- Mild exfoliation

- Strengthen skin barrier

- Hydrate the skin

- Suitable for people with eczema, rosacea, or post-procedure skin

**Caution:** None major — very safe for beginners.

 **So, Which One Should You Use?**

| Skin Type | Ideal Acid |

|-----------|-------------|

| Dry/Dull | AHA (like lactic or glycolic acid) |

| Oily/Acne-Prone | BHA (salicylic acid) |

| Sensitive | PHA (gluconolactone) |

| Combination | A mix of AHA + BHA in alternate days |

 **Quick Tips:**

- **Start slow**: 2–3 times a week is enough for beginners

- **Don’t mix too many acids**: Can lead to redness and over-exfoliation

- **Always moisturize and use sunscreen** after chemical exfoliation

- **Avoid scrubs** if you’re using acids — too harsh when combined

 **Final Thought**

AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs all help in their own ways — but the right one depends on your skin type and what you’re trying to fix. If you’re unsure, it’s always safer to start with PHAs or milder forms of AHAs like lactic acid.

Still confused about which one is right for your skin?

**Visit Dr. Rizwan’s Skin, Cosmetic & Laser Clinic** for a personalized skincare consultation — no confusion, no trial-and-error, just expert guidance.